Thursday, November 18, 2010

October 12: Bali & Lombok, Indonesia

October 12, 2010
Bali is the epitome of tropical splendor, and then some.  Palm trees? Check. Coconuts? Check. Mangos, papaya, banana, tamarind, vanilla, clove, coffee, and every other tropical fruit or spice you can imagine, growing on trees all around you and perfuming the air with flower, fruit and spice? Check. A vibrant Hindu culture with music, incense, offerings, garlands, traditional dress, and elaborate temples, happening all around you all the time? Check.

We spent our first 2 nights in Kuta, an over-grown surfer town with lots of night clubs, traffic and touts (our least favorite part of Bali, but it happens to be near the airport.). Still, amidst the faux-hawk, mopeds, and D&G knock-off stores, here's what we saw the first night on the beach....

...a procession of several hundred Hindus marching from the water and through the city, singing and chanting, burning incense, carrying statues.

October 14, 2010
We head to the Gili Islands, in Lombok, (east of Bali), for some beach time.

View from the boat as we approach Gili Tarawangan

The Gilis are a string of three islands, surrounded by coral reefs. There are no cars or motorbikes, so the transportation options consist of walking, cycling, or horse-cart.....


We first stayed in Gili Tarawangan, the most populous of the three. Our guesthouse was run by an awesome family who kind of took us in as their long-lost, yellow-haired relatives.

This is Din, the dad. He enjoyed 'man-talk' with Joe.

Sunset on Gili T
Later, still...
One of our many self-portraits, taken during sunset on Gili T.

One of our favorite things about travel in this part of the world is the preponderance of baby animals. In true SE Asian fashion, some adorable kittens appeared at our guest house one morning...



During our time on Gili T, we discovered, through arduous research, one of the most delicious sunset cocktails we've ever had. We strongly recommend that, at your earliest convenience, you obtain some gin, mint leaves, lemongrass, ginger, sugar, lime juice and ginger ale, and mix yourself up a Soho:


We enjoyed them while admiring this view, but believe they will still taste good without it:

View of sunset during happy hour

October 17 (or thereabouts): Gili Air

After several sun-filled days on Gili T, we decided to head over to Gili Air, a smaller and less developed island in this three-island chain.

View from boat ride to Gili Air
Boys on boat to Gili Air

Boat dock on Gili Meno, en route to Gili Air

 The perimeter of the island consists of fishing villages and very laid-back guest houses...
Water taxis on the beach at Gili Air
Boats made by hand - Gil Air, Indonesia
Sign in front of our guest house, Gili Air

The interior of the island, connected by winding foot paths, is inhabited solely by locals. Life doesn't appear to have changed much here over the last 100 years or so. No cars or motorbikes, few televisions, the occasional lightbulb. Walking through the villages at night, there's nothing mechanized to interrupt the sounds of families cooking by the fire, children playing, roosters crowing....

'Main Road' around island
Grazing on Gili Air

 The days were relaxing, spent in hammocks or snorkeling. The island has beautiful reefs just offshore that are thriving, with bright-blue and purple corals, huge blue starfish, giant clams and very friendly sea turtles.  We stayed in a very comfortable 2-story bungalow, and slept well. Fortunately, we remained blissfully ignorant of the giant (bread plate-sized!) island-dwelling spiders until the morning that we left the island.

Giant spider on Gili Air (normal-sized spider upper-left of giant spider, shown for scale.)

Next stop....back to the island of Bali!


October 9, 2010 - Ha Long Bay & Bai Tu Long Bay, Vietnam

October 9, 2010: Ha Long Bay & Bai Tu Long Bay, Vietnam 

After leaving Hoi An, we continued north to Hanoi, where we were present for the city's 1000 year anniversary! People came from all over the country (and the world) to witness this event. The city had decorations and lights strung everywhere, and stages set up around the city with musical performances.

From Hanoi, we took a boat to Cat Ba Island which, situated in Ha Long Bay, is a great jumping off point for boat tours of Ha Long Bay.  We spent an afternoon exploring the beaches.....



....and set out on a boat the following morning.  We lucked out! We signed on for a night aboard a boat in Ha Long Bay and the more remote waters of Bai Tu Long Bay, with potentially 6 other people, only to have the boat to ourselves (with a crew, of course)!  Here's Diana lounging on the top deck .....

The top deck of our 'private' boat in Vietnam!
Floating fishing village in Ha Long Bay
People live and work in floating huts like this, clustered all around Ha Long Bay
Fishing village with limestone formations in the background.
Bai Tu Long Bay - more remote and less populated that Ha Long Bay.
That night, we chose to forgo sleeping in the cabin and, instead, slept on the top deck underneath a clear, night sky that was loaded with stars, including some huge shooters!

The sleeping arrangements
The following day, we kayaked through small cave-like openings into private lagoons that were enclosed on all sides with jungle-covered limestone cliffs, finding groups of monkeys swinging in the trees! (Sorry, no pics - we didn't want to risk the camera in the kayak.)


October 11-12
Following our relaxing days on Ha Long Bay, we had to high-tail it back to Saigon. The next two days were a blur, and went something like: boat, bus, boat, bus, taxi, taxi, train (34 hours to Saigon!), taxi (crazed ride to airport, narrowly making our plane...), airplane, airplane.....Bali!

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

October 4: Hoi An, Vietnam

October 4: We arrive in Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An is a thriving town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a well-preserved historic section seated on canals. 

Shops and canal in old Hoi An, Vietnam
Boats on canal in Hoi An

Local woman on boat.


Restaurant in Hoi An

Old Hoi An, Vietnam - street scene

Hoi An was a major international port in the 16th and 17th centuries, and this foreign influence is still visible in the Chinese architecture of some shops and houses, as well as the presence of Chinese Buddhist temples.

Dragon statue in front of Chinese Temple, Hoi An

Big horse statue and temple interior.

Incense sticks, Chinese Temple, Hoi An, Vietnam

Dozens of these enormous incense cones hung from the temple ceiling.

The cones were bigger than Diana.

Joe was invited to beat the temple drum.

After a long day of sightseeing, we were hungry and thirsty.  We were quite pleased to find out that the price of beer in Hoi An hasn't changed much since the ol' shipping days. Icy brews on tap were a great way to cool off, and for 4000 Dong (20 cents!) a piece, they're cheaper than water.

Cheers to 20 cent beers!
It rained so much rain while we were in Hoi An, that we had to stick around for a few days until the rails and roads were up and running. Did we mind? Nope!

Enjoying the cheapest beer in the world!
Hoi An by night is just as beautiful. Wandering through town after dinner and drinks, our path was lit by hundreds of colorful lanterns.

Lanterns over bridge in Hoi An.

Old Hoi An by night.





October 2: Nha Trang, Vietnam

Tropical flowers in Vietnam (for you, Mom!)

Nha Trang, Vietnam
Heading north from our cool, mountain retreat in Dalat, we arrived in Nha Trang, a topiary-obsessed city on the coast:

Topiary garden along the beach in Nha Trang, Vietnam

Beach in Nha Trang



We went on a snorkeling trip, which was impressive for the pretty coral and the octopus we saw, as well as for the feast we had for lunch on the boat!
The food just kept coming, and coming.....

Tiger Beer: A mediocre beer in a really cool can!
Getting ready to snorkel....

On the way to the snorkeling site, we passed fisherman in traditional 'basket boats' - we suppose their stability makes up for their awkwardness when it comes to rowing....


We spent a couple of nights in Nha Trang.....



...and a day or two hanging out with friends on the beach....



...and then, to liven things up, we took a 14-hour sleeping bus further north, to the historic town of Hoi An...

At least there were no goats....